Canoeing is one of the best ways I know to experience nature. From a comfortable canoe seat, you can almost always see more than a hiker or driver could. You would see more from the seat of a canoe than you could from a small airplane, or even a helicopter. Since native american times canoes have been widely used in the Adirondacks, but it is not often said what goes into building a good wood and canvas canoe. In high school I built one, and was astonished by the amount of time that goes into building just one.
The first hurdle is finding the proper wood. Cedar is used for the ribs and planking, while the stronger gunwales are made of ash. While the gunwales can be made of other similar hardwoods, there is really no substitute for cedar for the ribs and planks. Cedar is light, very resistant to rot, and above all lightweight. The only problem is that "clear" cedar, cedar without any knots or uneven grains, is extremely hard to come by, and therefore fairly expensive. In the picture below, steamed cedar ribs have been bent around the canoe mold. Of the 48 total ribs, we broke about ten due to grain irregularities.
After all of the ribs have been bent successfully, they need to be evened out on the outside, so that the planking will rest on neighboring ribs equally. Using a home made sanding block, the whole canoe is worked over. The next task is the planking. Planking takes a very long time, since every one of the planks has to be cut and fit perfectly over the complex shape of the hull. The planks are fastened to the ribs with approximately 3,000 canoe tacks. Each needs to be nailed in from the outside then "clinched" or bent over on the inside so that they do not poke the paddlers. Clinching usually leaves a dents all over this ribs, so a thorough sanding of the inside is required.
At this point, even though most of the wood is already in the canoe, it weighs only about half of what it will upon completion; it is so light that it can be easily picked up with only one hand. After the planking has been completed, the canoe is removed from the mold, and hung in a canvas harness for several days until the canvas takes its shape. Several coats of canvas filler are then worked into hull. These layers will lend the canoe a substantial amount of its weight in addition to keeping out water.
While the filler is left to dry for a few days in the sun, all the finishing work takes place. Seats are built from sturdy maple and then cained. Thwarts (the pieces of wood that span the gunwales) are fashioned and four coats of varnish are liberally applied to the inside, making the canoe much heavier but giving it a nice glow. After a few coats of classic, dark green canoe paint and the installation of protective metal strips over the stems, the finished canoe is ready to be taken on an adventure.
There is really no substitute for a wood and canvas canoe. Metal canoes are less comfortable, and make thunderous noises every time they are tapped. They are difficult to repair, and don't look very good on the water. Plastic canoes, although somewhat better, do not feel quite right. Nature should not be experienced from a plastic tub. With proper care, wood and canvas canoes can last many years, and usually only require a re-canvassing to be as good as new.
Note: This is the final post, revised after writing center appointment on 4/25/15.
I have always enjoyed canoeing but never considered all the work that must go into making one. This process seems quite intensive but one that I'm sure is worth all the work. Although I haven't made a canoe, I understand the enjoyment and satisfaction that comes from making something yourself that you use on a frequent basis. A canoe could very easily be bought from a sporting goods store but taking to time to make one yourself seems like it would deepen your connection with the nature you experience while in that canoe. I also think it seems nice to have the artistic license choose your own wood and personalize your canoe.
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