With
sugar maple (acer saccharum) under
increasing pressure from global warming (Jenkins 39), sugarers in the Adirondacks
are under pressure to expand their production into novelty syrups from other
tree sources. The most promising
candidate: the Birch.
For
centuries in Latvia, the birch sap has served as a celebrated culinary resource
(Guttman 2012). From birch sap syrup to
sparkling wine, Latvians capitalize on the many applications of this otherwise
undervalued resource, in some cases holding a goblet under the tap and drinking
the sap straight out of the tree. Aside
from treasuring birch sap as a national resource, producers make a killing on
selling the refined syrup: the going rate is over $10 for a small, 8 oz. bottle
(Guttman 2012).
On this
side of the Atlantic, we are a little more hesitant to turn to this new
sweetener. For one, birch sap has a much
lower sugar concentration than sugar maple sap and it can take as many as 100
gallons of the raw, sticky substance to yield one gallon of thickened birch
syrup (Thill 2014). This obviously
drives the cost of production through the roof, requiring not only more trees
tapped and gallons harvested, but also more intensive purification to attain comparably
sweet syrup. Further, the finished
product is not necessarily a replacement for maple syrup (those tasting it
expecting the sweet traditional maple flavor are in for an unexpected
surprise). Birch syrup resembles
molasses more than maple syrup, with hints of balsam, raspberry and iron—an earthy
sweetness that tastes better in combination with other flavors rather than
overwhelming a pile of pancakes (Thill 2014).
While
Birch syrup is a different product than maple syrup, it does promise economic
benefits, especially in the face of struggling sugar maples in the Adirondacks. Sugar maple requires a succession of freezing
nights and warm(er) days for its sap to flow, so sugarers are relying on an
increasingly shorter harvesting season.
Birch trees, on the other hand, do not release their sap until the soil
has warmed to around 50 degrees Fahrenheit as the tree begins to bud (Thill
2014). Thus, as the maple sugaring
season ends, birch sugaring would just be beginning, adding another dimension
to the possibilities (and length) of the sugaring season in the Adirondacks. Further, the novelty of birch syrup fetches a
high price among chefs and tourists seeking out local souvenirs.
Maple
sugaring in the Adirondacks is shrinking (sad as it is to admit). Harvesting sap from native birch trees and
other sap producing trees provides this important Adirondack industry with
another dimension to help absorb the negative implications of climate
change. Let’s tap our Adirondack
resources!
References:
Guttman, Amy. 21 May
2012. “Move Over, Maple Syrup, Birch
Syrup May Challenge Your Sweet Rule.”
From: NPR. Url: <http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/05/21/153194426/move-over-maple-syrup-birch-syrup-may-challenge-your-sweet-rule>.
Jenkins, Jerry. 2004. The
Adirondack Atlas: A Geographic Portrait of the Adirondack Park. Syracuse University Press: Syracuse, NY.
Thill, Mary. 2014. “The Other Syrup.” From Adirondack
Life Magazine. Url: <http://www.adirondacklifemag.com/blogs/2014/02/12/syrup/>.